Day 2 – A Golden Day Between the IJsselmeer and the Eleven Cities Route
Today our Eleven Cities Tour truly began. From Rijs, we cycled about 50 kilometers toward Workum — a stage that felt like a journey through both time and landscape. Friesland showed itself from its very best side.
We started the day at a relaxed pace. The sun was still low, the sky clear, and the mood in the group was excellent. Our first stop: Laaxum, the smallest fishing harbor in Europe. A few weathered cottages, an old boat at the quay, a fluttering Frisian flag, and the endless view across the IJsselmeer — simply beautiful.
Not much later, we stood on the Roode Klif, at the Monument of Warns. Here in 1345, the Frisians defeated the army of Count William IV of Holland. The inscription “Leaver dea as slaef” (“Rather dead than a slave”) is more than just words carved in stone — it strikes a chord, especially with the wide view across the water.
We continued to Stavoren, the oldest city in Friesland. At the harbor, I told the group the well-known legend at the statue of the Lady of Stavoren:
Once, she was the richest merchant’s widow in the city. But she didn’t just want wealth — she wanted the most precious thing in the world. So she sent a ship out to find it. The ship returned with wheat. “What should I do with food for common people?” she cried, and threw the grain into the sea. Soon after, she lost everything — her fortune, her status, her reputation. The harbor silted up, her houses stood empty, and she ended up as a beggar. A classic tale of pride before the fall, still told to this day.
After a short break, we cycled on to Hindeloopen, a picturesque town known for its narrow alleys, colorful houses, and rich history. We took a short walk together and enjoyed lunch. The atmosphere was relaxed, curious, and noticeably closer than the day before.
In the afternoon, our route took us through the wide-open area of It Heidenskip — a quiet ribbon village nestled between meadows, canals, and birdsong. This is Friesland in its purest form: no traffic, only the gentle hum of bike chains, the call of a lapwing or black-tailed godwit, and the occasional “You’ve got to see this!”
The final stretch to Workum may have been the most beautiful part of the day. A car-free cycle path wound through farmland, ditches, and reeds, with the tower of the St. Gertrude Church slowly appearing on the horizon. But just before reaching the finish, a minor setback — a flat tire! Instantly, a small repair crew gathered around, and with a few skilled hands and some good humor, we were back on the road in no time.
By late afternoon, we arrived in Workum and checked into the hotel. Legs were tired, but spirits were high. A wonderful day, full of stories and connection.
Tomorrow, a longer stage awaits: via IJlst, Bolsward, Harlingen, and Franeker to Leeuwarden. We’re ready!
– Sytze
Friesland Holland Travel
🌐 www.frieslandhollandtravel.nl
✉️ info@frieslandhollandtravel.com
