Day 4: The hell of the north with tropical heat
We started the day in Leeuwarden, where the city slowly woke up. It promised to be a beautiful and hot day. After breakfast, we gathered outside by the bikes. Today’s route was a bit shorter – but no less interesting.
Soon we left the hustle and bustle of the city behind and followed the quiet path along the Dokkumer Ee towards Wyns. This part of Friesland breathes space and calm. The towpaths wind along the water, with reeds swaying left and right, and wide views that invite you to pause again and again. In Wyns, we took a short break at the little church by the water.
Shortly after, we reached the Elfsteden monument at the bridge in Gytsjerk – a special moment: thousands of small tiles with the names of Elfstedentocht participants form a tribute to perseverance, cold, and Frisian determination. We paused for a moment – some searched for a familiar name, others took photos. Here you can feel that the Elfstedentocht is still very much alive.
On a green route, we then cycled to Stania State in Oentsjerk, a beautiful estate with a rich history. The stately trees, the impressive main building, and the quiet gardens provided the perfect setting for shade, a drink break, and a short walk. The pace was a bit slower today – which was very pleasant given the heat.
We continued to Birdaard, where we enjoyed a lovingly prepared lunch by the water. The village exudes authenticity, with its mill, bridge, and friendly atmosphere. There was time to catch up, soak up the sun, and stretch our legs.
After lunch, we headed to Hegebeintum. The short climb was worth it: here you find the highest terp (artificial dwelling mound) in the Netherlands. From the top, we had a wide view over the flat Frisian landscape. The old church on the terp added a sense of history and calm – and a stroke of luck: the church was open, and we were allowed to take a look inside!
Along quiet roads and past grazing sheep, we then rode toward our campsite at Zee van Tijd in Holwerd. A drink break and a moment of rest during the hottest part of the day – some enjoyed the silence to themselves, others sought a drink and a seat in the sun.
We cycled the last few kilometers to Dokkum at a leisurely pace. The arrival in this northernmost of the Eleven Cities is always special. Fortress walls, canals, and a historic city center full of stories.
Time to check in and enjoy a delicious dinner at ’T Stalt. Simply fantastic!
Another wonderful day on the Elfstedentocht route!
Tomorrow we continue – Ameland is on the agenda!
Warm regards,
Sytze
